Enamel craft is an ancient and exquisite decorative technique, widely used in jewelry and watch making. The latest jewelry watch series of Jaeger-LeCoultre and Van Cleef & Arpels use solid enamel craftsmanship to make people admire the magic of dial art.
The artistic and investment value of jewelry art watches far exceeds the basic timekeeping function. There are many brands in the watch industry that are capable of creating art watches, such as Jaeger -LeCoultre and Van Cleef & Arpels. Their achievements in enamel craftsmanship can be seen at a glance through the rare and extraordinary dial art.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Rare Flower Watch
The rectangular Reverso watches in the Jaeger-LeCoultre collection have two sides. Some models have time dials on both sides, while others use one side as an artistic canvas for the craftsmen of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Métiers Rares Workshop to display their superb decorative and jewellery skills.
Reverso One ‘Precious Flowers’ Birds of Paradise
A new take on traditional Grand Feu champlevé enamelling, this watch captures the vibrant colours of the bird of paradise. After hollowing out the flat metal surface of the caseback to create the outline of the design, the artisan cuts tiny 24K gold leaves into the same shape and size as the flower and carefully affixes them. The gold foil substrate adds texture to the orange and gold tones of the piece. The enameller then applies 19 different colours of enamel pigment to give the pattern subtle colour variations and a three-dimensional feel.
The Bird of Paradise model is inlaid with 331 diamonds weighing approximately 1.64 carats. The inlay process takes a total of 65 hours, and the dial is coated with up to nine layers of enamel, a process that takes 60 hours.
Reverso One ‘Precious Flowers’ Hibiscus Enamel
The hibiscus flower on the watch symbolizes beauty and wisdom. The finely painted grand feu champlevé enamel flowers and leaves are made of 12 colors of enamel, a total of nine layers, and 24K gold foil is inlaid under the enamel to set off the golden stamens. The watch is inlaid with a total of 157 diamonds weighing approximately 1.25 carats. The enamel process took 50 hours and the gem setting took 22 hours.
Reverso One ‘Precious Flowers’ Hibiscus Diamonds
The blue flowers on the watch are made using the Grand Feu enamelling process, which takes 30 hours and the enamel craftsman has gone through 12 color research experiments to achieve the color gradient effect. The craftsman then uses a small 24K gold foil inlaid under the enamel to set off the golden stamens, while the snowflake-inlaid diamond background contrasts sharply with the colorful flowers and leaves.
The watch is embellished with grain-set diamonds to embellish the engravings and lugs. There are a total of 2.02 carats, approximately 523 diamonds, and the gem setting process takes a total of 120 hours.
These three Jaeger-LeCoultre pieces are equipped with a 846 manual-winding mechanical movement with a power reserve of 38 hours, and each is limited to 10 pieces.
Van Cleef & Arpels Extraordinary Dial Collection
For more than a century, enamel craftsmanship has always been the focus of Van Cleef & Arpels. Its Extraordinary Dials series brings together many métiers d’art master craftsmanship of the watchmaking workshop, which fully demonstrates the profound heritage of the series.
Three-dimensional enamel inlay technology
After two years of research and development and 180 hours of hand-assembly, this 41 mm watch uses Façonné three-dimensional enamel and enamel inlay technology to cast the scene of fairies picking flowers on the dial.
Façonné three-dimensional enamel craftsmen melt the enamel glaze at high temperature, pour it on a stainless steel tray, and then cut it piece by piece to create a three-dimensional shape. Three different shades of turquoise on the dial background create a blue sky with progressive colors, while yellow gold and precious gems such as orange manganese garnet, yellow sapphire and diamonds compose the sunshine. The new three-dimensional inlay technology makes the gems like smart dew, and the bottom cover of the watch is engraved to present a flying fairy.
Stained glass enamel carving
This 41mm art watch is made of crystal clear plique-à-jour painted glass enamel, with a three-dimensional enamel flower sea inlaid with yellow sapphire stamens. The bottom cover of the watch is embellished with engraving and polishing techniques, interpreting the charm of fairies intoxicated by the gorgeous starlight.
These two Van Cleef & Arpels watches are equipped with a Q474 manual-winding movement with a 38-hour power reserve.